During July and August sow a few rows of Carrots using the variety Eskimo. This is an excellent variety which can stay in the ground throughout Winter and can be used as-and-when needed.<\/p>\n
\u2018Eskimo\u2019 is an F1 hybrid maincrop carrot<\/strong> bred with good cold tolerance. It produces fairly long, smooth, cylindrical-to-tapered orange roots and is particularly valued for Autumn and Winter harvesting<\/strong>.<\/p>\n It\u2019s a handy variety if you want carrots later in the year rather than having everything ready in Summer.<\/p>\n July is an excellent time for a late crop. Sow the seed directly where the carrots are going to grow<\/strong>. Carrots dislike being transplanted because disturbing the taproot can produce forked or misshapen carrots.<\/p>\n Make a shallow drill around 1\u20131.5 cm deep<\/strong>, sow the seed thinly and leave about 30 cm between rows<\/strong>. Once the seedlings establish, aim for roughly 5\u20138 cm between plants<\/strong> for decent-sized roots.<\/p>\n With a July sowing, you can generally expect to start lifting carrots during October and November<\/strong>, depending on conditions and exactly when you sow.<\/p>\n For an August sowing, I’d sow as early in the month as possible<\/strong>. By late August, falling temperatures and shortening days mean growth becomes much slower.<\/p>\n An early-August sowing could give you smaller carrots in late Autumn into Winter<\/strong>. In a cooler, wetter area, I’d regard mid-to-late August sowings as more experimental \u2014 you may get worthwhile roots, but don’t expect the same size as a June or July sowing.<\/p>\n Its big advantage is cold tolerance<\/strong>. Established roots can be left in the ground later than many varieties, giving you a crop to lift as you need it.<\/p>\n A layer of straw, leaves or horticultural fleece<\/strong> over the bed as Winter approaches can help protect the soil and make harvesting easier. The bigger issue in a very wet Winter can actually be waterlogged soil and slug damage rather than cold.<\/p>\n Carrot fly can still be active during these late sowings. The simplest approach is to cover the bed immediately after sowing with fine insect mesh<\/strong> and leave it covered.<\/p>\n Avoid thinning if you can by sowing very thinly. When carrot foliage is crushed or disturbed during thinning, the smell can help attract carrot fly.<\/p>\n For a July\u2013August Eskimo crop, I’d do this:<\/strong> sow one row\/batch in early July<\/strong>, another around late July<\/strong>, and a final smaller batch in the first week or two of August<\/strong>. That should stagger your harvest nicely through Autumn and into Winter.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" During July and August sow a few rows of Carrots using the variety Eskimo. This is an excellent variety which can stay in the ground throughout Winter and can be used as-and-when needed. \u2018Eskimo\u2019 is an F1 hybrid maincrop carrot bred with good cold tolerance. It produces fairly long, smooth, cylindrical-to-tapered orange roots and is […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":28,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[10,9],"tags":[23],"class_list":["post-26","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-august","category-july","tag-carrots"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=26"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":31,"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/26\/revisions\/31"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/28"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=26"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=26"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/seanjamescameron.com\/gardening\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=26"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Sowing in July<\/h3>\n
Sowing in August<\/h3>\n
Why Eskimo works for Winter<\/h3>\n
One thing I’d definitely do: protect against carrot fly<\/h3>\n